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My name is Gavin McClements. I am a wargamer and family man, living in Los Gatos, which is a suburb of San Jose, CA. Building terrain is one of my favorite aspects of the wargaming hobby - in fact, lately I've become more interested in making my battlefields "pop" than in actually playing.

Thursday, August 13, 2015

How Warmaster compares to Hail Caesar - for 10mm

I love rulesets, like most gamers. I love rulesets more than most, I suspect, because I love to read and edit - it's just what I do. But mostly, I love to see how different people introduce similar concepts (really, how many ways are there to describe how to measure range, for example?).

I also like shiny things, and next-gen rulesets are often that. Unless your company has the initials "GW" in it, it is usually assumed that the latest edition of a set of rules improves upon its predecessors - not always, but usually.  I believe this is the case with Warmaster, Warmaster Ancients, and now Hail Caesar.

There are quite a few reviews out there for Hail Caesar. Among them, I found:


The thread I started on the Specialist Arms forum is a good one, too, I think:

First, let me link this here - the whole reason I bought Hail Caesar was because I caught wind of Ady's Fantasy mod for HC. I have since joined the Hail Caesar Fantasy Yahoo group, but Ady's work will be my foundation, I believe.

I want to make some of my own detailed notes about the differences and similarities between Warmaster and Hail Caesar, mostly because I am really interested in playing HC (up til now, I've only been reading and digesting the book over and over).

Hail Caesar has been called "Warmaster with less dice". Other differences as noted on https://boardgamegeek.com/thread/659828/difference-between-hail-caesar-and-warmaster-ancie:
Each unit is given one order, how well you succeed determines how many moves the unit can make.
A unit doesn't loose stands, only reduces in effectiveness.
You roll far less dice in a HC combat.

 1. In WMA, most units consist of three stands. Units in HC come in varying sizes: standard, large, small, and tiny. Unit frontage is a key factor, and most units are at least two ranks deep. While there are different unit sizes - only small and regular make much sense in game. Tiny are really only for scenario specific stuff, and large seem to get very little benefit for their increase in footprint. Frontage is what matters, depth is not really very important.

2. There is a wider range of troop types available in HC. There is also a much greater variety of possible unit formations. Not sure there are really that much difference in number of troop types. Also while HC has several prescribed formations - in WM you can arrange your formation as you wish.

3. In WMA, each unit may be given up to three commands per turn, with each command and die roll being made in succession. In HC, the unit's orders must be stated out loud, then a die roll determines whether the unit can make zero, one, two, or three moves to complete its orders. Move distances are also a bit smaller in HC. Move distances are smaller in HC? Light Cavalry can move huge distances in HC

4. In WMA, each unit has a single Attack value. In HC, each unit has two separate values for ranged combat (Short and Long), and two separate values for hand-to-hand combat (initial Clash and Sustained fighting). Clash / Sustained is only different for Cavalry - and this is good - it makes cavalry good on the charge, less good after round 1.

5. There is no Armour Save in HC, although the Morale Save serves a similar function. In HC, each unit also has a Stamina value - if a unit takes more hits than this value, it becomes Shaken and suffers various penalties. Under certain circumstances, units being attacked in ranged or hand-to-hand combat also must take a Break test to see if they hold, give ground, or break and run away. Armour Save / Morale save - same thing, different name. The Break test in HC is key - this is a 2d6 result that determines the result of a combat. This can make or break the game for you. Its possible for a very good unit to rout off the table after getting 1 wound from missile fire. We house ruled that you rolled 3d6 for break tests, and kept the best 2 dice. This helped stop some of the crazy fluctuations in results.

6. HC also includes a number of useful optional rules to add historical characteristics and flavor to various units. Yes HC lists all the optional rules together - but WM just lists them with each army list - no real difference here.

7. In WMA, armies tend to be built to standard point values. HC is much more oriented toward scenario play, with little emphasis on points-based armies. The HC rulebook includes seven complete sample scenarios. Points - while the core HC book had very little in the way of points, there have been several army books since that are much more points focused. 

Things that seemed a bigger difference to me would include:
More streamlined combat - no more endless rounds of WM combat.
Simpler combat - no fiddling around with single stand removal, fall backs and follow-ups.
HC has longer combats between heavy infantry - these turn into long slugging matches not a knock out punch
HC Knights are much less strong than in WM (which is good)
Skirmishers work well in HC
HC proximity rule works fairly well to limit movement when close to enemy, but can be a bit fiddly, and can be exploited.

Movement in HC is still pretty free an easy (like WM)
Light Infantry is very good 

The above was cut-and-paste from the thread I started, and it was what I focused on the most during my explorations. I have to say, however, that there are a few other things that seem to really make a difference to me as I read the HC rules.

Divisions (formerly called brigades) - these are assigned before the game. A commander must be included in a division, and can only give orders to that division. The neat thing is, units must be within 6" of each other to receive a Division order - so they dont need to be touching.

Basing - I plan on using my Warmaster armies for HC, and I plan on using them as-is - so my infantry will be 3 bases of 40m x 20mm, cavalry will be 3 stands based to the short edge, etc. If this proves unwieldy or unfair, I'll revisit it, but that is my plan for now. Note also that I plan on using measurements as-is, instead of converting to centimeters or halving ranges, as some have mentioned elsewhere.

Orders - in Warmaster, you could easily have a situation like this: Your Ld 9 hero orders a unit forward. After his first move, now the unit is within 20cm of an enemy (-1), has a unit to its flank (-1), and is more than 20cm from the issuing hero (-1). Its second order (-1) will be at a 5-...ouch.

HC seems to only have distance mods, but they're stretched out to 12" range bands instead of the 8"/20cm bands of WM. This means that orders will go off much more reliably than in WM, especially since only one roll is made to determine how many orders a unit may make (and many unit or formation types ignore this distance penalty!). In the above example, if, one the first Command roll, the roll was 8+, the unit would get one order. On a 6+, the unit would get 2 Orders, and on a 5+. the unit would get 3 Orders.This seems like such a better version!

*NOTE* This seems confirmed in the "Author's Notes" of Hail Caesar, even though this opinion is not shared by some on the Warlord Games forums (seen in THIS thread) -

Hail Caesar, p172, 2nd paragraph in right column:
"Modifiers to the command rolls have also been reduced to that for distance only."

It is in the discussion of how HC differs from Black Powder, and includes discourse on the shortened movement rates, extended melee, and desire to keep HC as a less maneuverable, more "reliable" game of "slog forward and brawl". So this makes me feel confident that this is the right model for me...

Free Moves - many units, including those in columns or with special traits, can make a free move after a failed order attempt. This can really prevent stagnation, I believe, and looks really good in theory. I havent analyzed the extent to which units have been given this Drilled special rule in Ady's conversions, but I approve.

Proximity Rule - this looks to be the most fiddly rule that I can see. It will take some getting used to.

Disorder - basically "Confused" from WM, seems to happen on a 4+ instead of a 6 in many cases.

Combat Modifiers - HC seems to hand out dice modifiers instead of extra or less dice. Like the Elves with their +1 to hit in ranged, or a Defended unit being hit on 5+, these can really adjust the odds instead of the dice thrown. I am in the "More dice is better" camp, but that's because I love dice. I do NOT think the d6 is the ultimate randomizer, but it is what it is. The other day, I threw 17 dice on a charge and only got 4 hits - so more dice isnt always better! :)

This isn't always the case, it seems. Ranged attacks do get Dice Mods.

Combat Results - after combat is determined by the usual manner, the loser rolls Break tests - that is, they test on a chart (which has been mentioned above as being "bursty"). Giving Ground is automatically 6" back, and yes, victorious units can pursue.

Commanders - Commanders can take wounds, I believe, and when "Wounded" they can no longer fight but still may issue orders. If for some reason a Commander is killed, the player gets a free replacement, at 1 less Leadership value than the dead commander. I think this is a good rule.

Summary - there is a super 9-page cheat sheet at the end of the book that really encapsulates the rules into a nice chart. The more I read the rules, and refer back to the Summary, the more I am convinced that this will be a fantastic play.

I may have some of these summaries wrong, but I've read and reread the rules and am really looking forward to getting this on the table. Hopefully I'll report once that actually happens!


This thread has a really great idea, posted by one of the Warlord Games moderators:

Q: My initial plan was to do 40x20 for all units and maybe 20x20 for comand and such.
If I go this route would say 3 40x20's for large unit 2 40x20's for standard and a single 40x20 for small work out? You think formations would be an issue using the 40x20 bases or should I get some 20x20's also for certain formations?

 A: That would be the way I would do it. [For formations,] I would use a marker of some sort. For a column, I,would line all the bases up short edge to short edge, just as you would a battle line, but have a marker, like a coloured ring, to mark the head of the column. Otherwise, use a series of folded card markers that state the formation. Honestly, it won't really matter because most of your units will be in line of battle for most of the time. Light units in open order will be depicted by separating the bases slightly. Skirmishers might benefit from being on smaller 20x20 bases to represent the "cloud" effect. Easy to spot, they can't form into close order and as I said earlier, the commanders on pennies stand out from them.

So...This looks like an even better solution to my above-mentioned 3 bases...I'm really happy I found this!

Sunday, August 2, 2015

6mm Wheat Fields

I've been on a kick lately to make my battlefields look, well, REAL, I guess. I'm quite obviously a train modeller in disguise, except I don't really give a damn about trains going round in circles :)

http://theminiaturespage.com/boards/msg.mv?id=380837 is a thread I started on TMP asking for some advice. I wanted to replicate things like this into my landscape:

Busch makes something like this, but I havent found it in the US yet. http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B0002OHBB0?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00
This was recommended in the above thread, and really kicked off my hunt.
I did eventually find this Faller product, and purchased two. I originally found it here:
They were $14 USD each, and I added tracking since I wasn't sure about the reseller, but everything arrived and they look amazing (albeit small, 6"x8"). Expensive but nice...I'll likely base one as is, and cut the other one up for small yards, etc in 6mm.
I finally got most of the product in and took some side-by-side shots of what I had found. The group shot (I sprinkled some US quarters about for size comparisons):
The fields on the right are from Scenic Express: http://www.sceneryexpress.com/SMALL-FURROW-PLOWED-FIELD/productinfo/BH7183/

Below, you can see the Ziterdes mat. It was wrapped in on itself, so I am STILL trying to get the bends out.
 The Silflor mat is on the left, below, with the Ziterdes product on the right. You can see how almost identical they are.
The Silflor sheet cut so easily with scissors. Here it is resting on some 1mm polystyrene sheeting - and you can see how much it sheds!

Of course, I didnt realize at the time, but Ziterdes is made in conjunction with Noch - and I wager I paid a bit more for the gaming application. Still, the Silflor product is as good as I could have hoped for. My only real complaint about the Silflor is the color - I would have liked it a bit more golden wheat colored, like the Ziterdes one, but alas, it'll do.

I am waiting on some 6mm stone walls to arrive from Leven Miniatures, after which I'll get some of these based up, but I am happy with what I see so far. The only California Gold fields I see like that Silflor one are in 6mm height...thats a bit tall, I think.

Friday, July 24, 2015

Nothing lasts forever

We are a unique group of individuals, you and I. We collect little things, play with little things, obsess with little things :)

I love collecting small scale miniatures. The assembling and painting, well...it doesnt always happen, but I'll spend hours pouring over army lists and working on finding proxy models, etc. Once these armies have been ordered, they usually sit :(  BUT I have them, and they'll be ready when I am.

The frustrating part of this hobby is finding or getting into a game years after it's heyday has passed - in my case, Epic Armageddon and Warmaster come to mind. You'll find someone's post about the perfect model to proxy for something, but the company that makes that model disappeared years ago, or something along those lines.

The closing announcement of Exodus Wars this week brought this little truth to light once again:

We, as a community, are served by some pretty amazing people; people with skills, talents, dreams, motivation, and even personal lives, tragedy, concern, loss and failure. We are niche community, hungering for more and more, but all in all, things in this hobby are fleeting. The items wont be around forever, nor will the creative minds who bring us these things.

As far as Exodus Wars goes, I have 2 huge armies in bags waiting to be assembled, so I'm good there - but I've wanted models from Microworld Games and now Onslaught Miniatures for some time. I know I don't have the funds to grab huge amounts of models that I want, and who knows - maybe in these individual cases they'll both be very successful and I'll have my decade to wait - but maybe not.

Then there are the giving souls who make being a part of this gaming community so rewarding. As I've delved into the world of 10mm fantasy, I have decided to stick with 6mm terrain as I don't find the size difference too jarring - and I do have an awful lot of 6mm sci-fi anyway. In particular, dealing with and purchasing from Mick at Leven Miniatures has been fantastic. His customer service and responsiveness has been refreshing, and his models, well...so cool!

The most recent treat was during a recent order, I asked if a particular building type (a forge or blacksmith's shop) would ever be on his radar - to which he responded that he was actually already in the process of making one! He kept me appraised during the creative process, and is shipping out a prototype with my other stuff this week. It's stuff like this that makes me want to continue contributing with my dollars to this community of ours, so that it can keep growing and thriving.

I'll wrap this up with a few of the  "small" people that I'm happy to have interacted with recently - not a complete list, not trying to dis anyone by omission, etc...:

Leven Miniatures for levels of awesomeness as already described
Brent Spivey of Bombshell Games for his group rules and responsiveness on the forums
Pendraken Miniatures
Robert at Shogun Miniatures for his great magnetic bases

Yea...this is a pointless task because soon I'll be thanking the entire world.

Let me wrap this up:
Buy now - the items you want may not be available forever!

Thursday, July 16, 2015

My 10mm Vampire Counts - list building

I initially posted my entry into Warmaster with a dual Wood Elves - Vampire Counts post - but since I am actually using these as references for ideas, etc, I decided to separate the two lists into posts of their own.

Wrath Ruin and the Red Dawn has some amazing conversions for his Vampire Counts army - many of which appear to model the current Warhammer Fantasy 8th Edition army list.

Pendraken Undead models pictured by Turbil

Ultimately I settled on these quantities. For ease of reference, I will link the model's entries on their respective website - I apologize for any broken links in advance.

WARMASTER - 10mm Vampire Counts
6 units of Skeletons
  • 18 bases, 180 model [10 per base]
4 units of Zombies
  • 12 bases, 120 models [10 per]

2 units of Ghouls
  • 6 bases, 60 models [10 per]
2 units of Grave Guard
  • 6 bases, 60 models [10 per]
2 units of Ethereal Host [5 or more per base, TBD]
  • 6 bases, 30-ish models
4 units of Black Knights
  • 12 bases, 48 models [4 per]
2 units of Dire Wolves
  • 6 bases, 12-18 models [2-3 per base because of the model's size]
2 units of Fell Bats
  • 6 bases, 6 models [1 per]
Lots! 2 Generals (1 mounted), 4 Vampires, 2 Wizards...1 Black Coach

And look at this fun thing! It's from DGS Games - just waiting on it to get into their shop! It'll be a fun vampire item! I have placed an order for this on their Kickstarter...so it'll be awhile if it even succeeds.

Wildly Inappropriate NSFW (Language) Fluff that was a blast to read but yea, language, kids!

Black Coach conversion idea

My Order list [NOTE: I love variety, and have mixed and matched excessively, compulsively, and in some cases, maybe foolishly...]:

*Since I originally made this order with my Wood Elves, I've left that part of the entry intact*
Miniature Resellers links:
Eureka Minis in Australia
[163.75 from the US store, and 124.03 from the Aussie store [qtys in US were limited] - $43AU for S/H!]
Eureka mini's USA branch
Copplestone Castings in the UK [$43.18 USD w/shipping]
  • Evil Characters [TM9] x2 - for Heroes, etc
  • Heroes on Horseback [TM16] x1 - for Wood Elf Heroes
  • Rangers [TM17] x1 - to sprinkle into Waywatchers, etc
Kallistra in the UK [$117 UK pounds w/shipping and "Buy 6-pay for 5" sale]
  • Historical Miniatures:
  • EEM The Impaled  [H-3019] x1 - for fun
  • 100YW Men-at-Arms [H-901] x3 [4 bases per] - for my Grave Guard based on this link (I'll paint skin/faces as white with black gaps and hope for the best)
  • 100YW Command [H-908] x1 - because Command :)
  • Fantasy Miniatures:
  • Skeleton Warriors [301] x5 [4 bases per] - for my main Skeleton horde
  • Zombie Horde [307] x3 [4 bases per] - my main Zombie horde
  • Undead Command [309] x1 [30+ figs] - Command/Heroes and fun
  • Tormented Spirits [308] x1 [4 bases, 16 figs] - for Ethereal Host, combined with Pendraken Wraiths
  • Skeleton Cavalry [302] x3 [4 bases per] - Black Knights
Pendraken in the UK
Pendraken's models through the War Store (US) [I placed this via email request to Neal, since some of the SKU's werent on their website] [$76.90 USD w/shipping]:
  • FE4 (Wood Elf Command) x1
    FE10 (Wood Elf Hero) x1
    AC24 (Mixed Ghouls) x6
    FU14 (Wraiths/Spirits) x2
    FU5 (Undead Command) x2
    FU26 (Undead Hero) x1
    FU13 (Undead Vampires) x1
    AC12 (Swarm of Bats) x6
    SYW12 (7 Years War Civilians) x1
    SYW10 (17/18th Century Carriage) x1
    AC2 (Helpless Maidens) x1
    AC4 (Zombies rising from the Grave) x1
    AC23 (Crucified Mummy) x1
Magister Militum in the UK [$37.38 USD w/shipping]
Khurasan Miniatures in the US [$24.65 USD w/ Shipping]
  • 15mm Fantasy items: 
  • Vampires [MYST-200] x1 [2 models] - for Heroes
  •  Zombie Wolves [MYST-202] x3 [6 models per] - for Dire Wolves
  • Jon Laney, Werewolf [MYST-203] x1 - for Hero or to lead DWs
Microworld Games - 6mm in the US [$23 total w/ shipping]
 > Because Kerynne.com offered some great ideas
Splintered Light 15mm minis in the US [$34 total w/ shipping]
For actual lists, I threw this together:

A really good idea from http://theultimatewarmaster.com/2013/07/ :
 " Due to the nature of the undead army and being able to raise new units in battle (which are worth no victory point’s, and contribute nothing towards army break point). I was wondering how I can depict these without confusing myself and my opponent. So after having a quick chat to my local GW manager, I came up with the idea of painting the Skeleton Warriors ethereal.

The idea is to have at least 4 of these units painted. It was quite simple to do. I undercoated black, dry brushed the whole unit white and then gave it a blue wash. I am thinking of giving the whole unit a very faint white dry brush again. Not too sure yet."

http://hetairoiwargames.blogspot.co.uk/2013/02/wm-ethereal-host.html  is another site with spirit hosts, so easily painted!

And this Black Coach:

Monday, July 6, 2015

6mm Total Battle miniatures 100 Days buildings

I have always loved 6mm stuff, even if I didnt know it (I started with Battletech back in 1986!). As I've gotten older, my love has remained, but now I like more expensive stuff (go figure).

As I've been exploring 10mm fantasy, I have read numerous times that people use 6mm terrain and it works fine, since the ground scale isnt the same as the model scale. With that in mind, I invested pretty heavily into Total Battle Miniatures and Leven Miniatures 6mm lines. I intend to use these with Warmaster and Mayhem, specifically, but they'll also flesh out my 6mm sci-fi tables as needed. That's why I went the Napoleonic route - you can see this stuff across Europe still, and it wouldnt be so out of place with grav tanks floating by.

Here is my version of the Hill Town Tile 1 found here. Because I dont do historical gaming, I mix and match as I see fit; I looked into colors, but not extensively. Let me apologize for my photography. I HATE blurry photos, but some of these are.

This is the final painted version without any trees added. I will be flocking the appropriate areas as soon as the extras I have on order from Perfect Six arrive (wells, crates and barrels, etc).
 I decided to add some trees here and there. I used a pin vise to drill into the resin, and superglued the trees in. The medium and dark green trees were from eBay vendors. The three light green ones were new from Leven Miniatures - since I love color variety, I was happy to get these in the 50mm variety.

With the GW Warmaster Dark Elf models in the town, I think they'll be fine on the table. Yes, there is a size discrepancy, but it isnt staggering (at least to my eyes), and I plan on moving forward with the 3 dozen other buildings I have :)

Saturday, June 27, 2015

Warmaster Bretonnian army - Building thoughts

I was thinking that a Bretonnian army would be easy to build because they could be so easily proxied.

Here is a proxy list that I'll be pulling heavily from:


This list needs a lot of help because I'm not sure which models to get for it. There are so many "Knight" models out there, but I dont truly understand historical periods, etc, so if you have advice?

The Kallistra line looks really promising for most options because they're in strips, and seem to fit the bill. NOTE: Kallistra bills themselves as 12mm. This might explain their larger size *LOL! (at my own silliness for missing this)*

Bowmen - 803 Romano British Archers

This is their H-903 100YW Longbowmen: [YES!] - as seen at http://warmasterdk.blogspot.com/2014/11/10mm-knights-and-bowmen-kallistra-100yw.html

Men-at-Arms [polearms and spears] - 802 Romano British Spearmen

I have to admit, however, that their 100 Years War models (H-901 100YW Men-at-Arms) looks a little more "Bretonnian" in my mind?

Peasants - 804 Peasants

Squires - 809 Romano British Horse Archers

Knights - These should be regal - after all, they're the heart and soul of the Bretonnian army. The Kallistra "British Romano" knights dont have the right look, I feel...still looking.

A friend recommends: "Stick with the 100 Years War & War of the Roses stuff. The Tuetons are a bit too gothic and while cool I'd give them a pass too. I'd also pass on the Romano British, that pretty much dark ages stuff (400 AD).

Oh 100 Years War French would be the best."

100 Years War "H-904 100YW Mounted Men-at-Arms" perhaps? [YES!]

H-1005 WOTR Mounted Men-at-Arms, perhaps? [YES!] - as seen at http://warmasterdk.blogspot.com/2014/11/10mm-knights-and-bowmen-kallistra-100yw.html

Some smaller options (not 12mm):
Magister Millitum's AOK 22 and AOK4 for flavor - AOK23 is a foot command
Grail Knights - H-8001 Teutonic Knights

Pegasus Riders - Eureka

400FAN47 http://eurekaminusa.com/collections/fantasy-10mm-by-alan-marsh/products/400fan47-pegasus-knights

Trebuchet - Kallistra HA-06 Trebuchet

General -Kallistra 808 Romano British Command

Also H-908 100YW Command:
Also H-1012 WOTR Command? So many to choose from!
H-8005 Teutonic Command
 Hero - See General, above

Enchantress - This could be the female mounted on the Unicorn, to the left (Eureka 400FAN19) but dang...only one comes in the pack and I don't really need another whole pack...

Unicorn - Mount (see above)

Pegasus - Mount - Not sure...Pendraken has one (no pic) and Eureka has their Pegasus Knights (see above) that I could get extras of...

Hippogriff - Mount - use the Pegasus Rider models to be on it? Hmmm...

MM has some riders, but I cannot find images:

Grail Reliquae - special

Friday, June 26, 2015

Warmaster Nippon list building

I've been eyeing the Nippon list as something that looks fun. They also look to be reasonably balanced with lots of options to keep the list from getting stale. For some ideas of fluff, check out https://docs.google.com/file/d/0B_Redi9cZJ5iYXlDT0xjcGxOaVE/edit from http://warhammerarmiesproject.blogspot.se/

Alternatively, this is a variation on the Fan list from the 2009 Armies book.

One note: If I go with Magister Militum as I am inclined to, you'll see a size difference between the Nippons and my other armies. Here is a MM Ashigaru (with spear) compared to the far left model, a Eureka Elf Archer:
As a side note, I just discovered www.castlearts-it.com/ so will have to check out their tasty items!

Samurai - Magister Militum has a splendid line. Some Mix-and-Match could be fun between the ranged and hand-weapon models, since Samurai are a 3/1 unit.

Kallistra is neat because they come in strips - but so far, I've been very impressed with MM's models.

Ashigaru Spearmen: Again, many choices. http://www.magistermilitum.com/scale/10mm/sam6-ashigaru-with-spears.html seem like a good way to go - their spears arent too long, which seems to be an issue the Kallistra spearmen have?

Ronin: It seems that the only way to differentiate these from Samurai, since according to reports I've read, ronin were allowed to keep their arms, is the back banner - so let's try some models without those.
Kallistra H-9002 Foot Samurai seem to fit the bill:

http://pendraken.co.uk/Renaissance-c12/Samurai-sc41/ has other options as well.

Warrior Monks: http://www.magistermilitum.com/scale/10mm/sam8-warrior-monks.html seem an obvious choice.
 Zealot Monks - http://eurekaminusa.com/collections/fantasy-10mm-by-alan-marsh/products/400fan34 seem perfect, and the "wizard" look might help out the Command stands a bit.

Shrine:Check this out! http://www.castlearts-it.com/index.php?page=prodotti&cat=giappone&scat=ES has the perfect shrine!
Temple Imps: These are basically kobolds, from what I can gather online.

Temple Oni: http://www.15mm.co.uk/products/sgfp02-oni-pack (they're a bit large, listed at 23mm tall, but oh well...)

A smaller version could just be the "Ogres" from Eureka - not as cool looking, though!

Tengu: http://www.15mm.co.uk/products/sgfp01-tengu-pack (again, a tad big at 20mm, but oh well)

Samurai Cavalry: MM again has the most dynamic poses that I can see, and the archers and swords are split already.

Temple Dogs: I would LOVE to use some Eureka Ki-Rin or Fu-Dogs for these. Regarding if the riders come separate, Eureka's response was, "All of the sets 400FAN35-40 come with separate riders, none are one piece." So YES, this will work!

Another great option is http://www.magistermilitum.com/scale/10mm/fmc615-temple-lion-dogs-x9.html

Daimyo / Abbot: Likely a few choices in the many Command packs I've located. I'm SURE I'll have enough...

Pendraken has a Seated General. He's, well, not intimidating, but what the heck.

Hatamoto: Again, the Command packs will have figures I can use.

Dragonne: This is going to have to be converted, I think. How about Lions from Splintered Light  (15mm...seems appropriate):
 ...and wings from a Eureka Gorgon rider? (hopefully they'll scale well)
For the rider, well...I hate to say it, but maybe a Samurai Ape from Pendraken? He seems to be one of the only separately modeled rider I can find - and I can paint the face as a mask - easy enough!

Or...I could just try this Winged Lion from Iron Wind:
Or...a "Drakkone" from IW:

Retinue: So many models needed!
Kallistra's "H-9006 Samurai Command" and "H-9010 Samurai Banners and Standards"
Pendraken's http://pendraken.co.uk/SAM20-p2952/ 
NINJA! http://www.magistermilitum.com/scale/10mm/sam9-ninja.html

Lastly, not for Warmaster so much but for Mayhem, maybe, here is a Celestial Dragon from Iron Wind:

Magister Militum:
  • Tengu x2
  • Oni x2
  • H-9006 Samurai Command x2
  • H-9010 Samurai Banners and Standards x1
  • H-9002 Foot Samurai x2
  • HK-106 Korean Command (variety, maybe?) x1
Splintered Light
  • MISC02 Lions x1

  • 400FAN13 Gorgon Rider x1
  • 400FAN34 Shaolin Monks x4 (?) - need 4 units
  • 400FAN37 Fu-Dogs x2 at least


Of note:
Irregular Minis 10mm Samurai
TSAM 1,2 Mounted samurai TSAM 3,4 foot samurai TSAM 6,7 Ashigaru

http://folk.uio.no/arnsteio/samurai/  has some historical comments about the different manufacturer's historical lines, if interested. To summarize:

"Pendraken: Pose = Several of Pendraken's figures have an earlyish sengoku feeling; e.g. their ashigaru bowman has no armour, and their Ashigaru Spear has no jingasa helmet, just a hachimaki head band.  All samurai cavalry were attended by go-kenin; these are probably best made with Pendraken's running figures, though I mix in some AIM for variety. Pendraken's "SAM8 Ashigaru Naginata" is very useful; with a straightened weapon it is a charging yari-wielding ashigaru in standard-issue ashigaru kit. Their armed peasants make for great variety.

Irregular: Pose = Quite static. Although Irregular has the weakest range, their figures will enhance the visuals of your army when complementing the other brands. I like the variety their straw raincoats can provide. None of Irregular's figures have yari, just naginata. This is unfortunate. TSAM6 is possibly the most useful 10mm samurai figure on the market (naginata-wielding ashigaru in standard-issue kit, standing at attention), doing time as nagae-yari wielder or banner bearer (I exchange his short naginata for a long piano wire) and a host of "standing around"-related tasks.

I use Pendraken and Irregular cavalry together; this gives a good choice between active and passive poses. Samurai horses were small (130cm to the shoulder) so it can't be that bad."

Castle Arts claims: "My models are fully compatible with Pendraken, other clubs have already bought my samurai and integrated them perfectly."

In all my blisters the sashimono (samurai or ashigaru) are INCLUDED.
AIM (?) seems to be the middle between these two, but seems out of print

Banners and Historical Resources
Amazing Samurai resource: http://www.samurai-archives.com and check out their banners at http://www.samurai-archives.com/mon.html because sometimes it's neat to replicate real world stuff! See some of it in cool pictures here.

Painting: (taken from http://theminiaturespage.com/boards/msg.mv?id=384752)
"The good thing is that the "rules" for army painting when it comes to sengoku period armies should be seen as more of a general guideline. It's not like Napoleonic armies, and you can find examples of all kinds of ways that armies looked, from those who were almost uniform and well structured towards the end of the period, to some forces that were little more than a bunch of haphazardly equipped troops with very little in common.

Here are the general "rules" as I interpret them after reading a bunch of books (some better than others):

1) Armour were laquered, with black being by far the most common colour. On second place you will find rust-brown, and then red. Far lower than these you will find unusual laquer like blue, gold and green, which were unlikely to be worn by rank-and-file.

2) Dresses were usually not uniform, with samurai typically wearing more expensive and colourful dresses, and ashigaru and peasants wearing everything from barely a loincloth to dresses with more dull colours like brown, grey and buff.

3) Uniforms were rare, and most troops were responsible for getting their own gear, or had them provided by their direct feudal lord. So even if a lord dressed his 25 guys equally, his neighbour would not dress his guys exactly the same. Generally, places with more resources had more opportunities for mass-equipping troops, and you would see more uniformity in equipment and heraldry the later you get in the period.

Units wearing predominately red, for example, are usually from the latter part of the period, when power had started to get centralized around a few leaders. But even the famously "all red" army of Ii, were likely not able to equip their entire army with uniforms, and it was more likely that they could muster front ranks wearing mostly red.

4) Heraldry, in the form of different types of banners, were the main way to identify military formations on the field. Not dresses or armour.

For me, especially at 6mm, these "rules" means that I tend to take some artistic license. If you paint an army with mostly black armour and just random colours for the sleeves and pants, it won't look all that inspiring on the battlefield. Especially not if you have two opposing armies looking more or less similar. So I tend to use coloured armour far more than is realistic, and also semi-uniform dresses.

For example, when I paint my two Takeda contingents, I decided to go with red armour on one, and green on the other. Very unhistorical, but it looks great. For both the red and green armoured ones I paint most of the dresses blue, white or yellow. Also unhistorical, but this means that I get some kind of cohesion between the contingents by using the same palette for the secondary colours.
Most importantly, this means that I get the whole Takeda army to look very different from the opposing army, which has all black armour, with Tokugawa forces wearing mostly blue dresses, and Hosokawa wearing mostly red dresses. Finally, the banners ties the different contingents together.

(Example of varying Takeda banners tieing together the army with uniform colours, despite armour being different. From left: Takeda, Takeda, Hosokawa, Tokugawa, Takeda, Takeda, Takeda)

So, basically I disregard "rule" 2, no uniform dresses, to make the armies look more interesting in 6mm. I find that the scale demands that you paint with strong colours and bold colour schemes, or the minis will just blend into each other. So I might be even more ahistorical in this scale, simple because painting 6mm is a different beast than painting 15mm or 28mm.

As I see it, you can decide to go for representing a historical look as close as you can, or use some artistic license. Personally I use periods with more rigid uniformity (Napoleonics and WW2) to get that aspect of the hobby, and I use less rigid periods (Sengoku Japan, Medieval Europe) to make more "fanciful" armies. As long as you are honest about which way you go, do what suits your passion, and paint according to the end result that you have in mind.

Edit: just because I can't shut up:

When painting Baccus 6mm samurai, I find that I have a limited number of areas to use to convey a colour scheme. These are
1) The armour
2) The pants and sleeves
3) The belt and sun cover on the jingasa helmets of ashigaru
4) The banners

The scale is simply too small and the number of soldiers too large for the lacing on the armour to be a) possible to paint without investing too much time, and b) visible on the finished rank-and-file troops. I do paint them on generals and stuff though.

So, for a 6mm army, I find that if you keep two or three of these areas similar for an entire contingent, you can vary the others and still keep them looking uniform, without looking identical. You will typically want to paint at least one of them in a striking colour, and another one in a contrasting colour that makes the striking colour more visible.

What does this mean? For example, I find that painting the belts and sun cover on the helmets white is a great way to make a dark coloured armour visible. Combine it with a bright colour on the sleeves and pants, and the whole miniature becomes visible, despite them being small. If I went with a dark blue belt, the whole torso and upper legs would risk looking like a blur. With a red armour, you could go with a very light blue or yellow belt, and still get this contrast.

This also affects my choice of colour on banners and sleeves/pants. For example, in the picture you can see that the Hosokawa has a bright yellow banner, black armour, and red pants/sleeves. I find that the two bold colours make a good match, and the black and white areas inbetween them (armour and belt) helps to keep them from "bleeding" into each other.

So, if you are unsure of where to begin with painting 6mm samurai, you could always make a general plan of attack based on these areas. Decide which ones you want uniform and which ones you want to vary (depending on how historical you want to be), and think about if you can put more neutral colours (like black or white) in between the more striking colours."