About Me

My photo
My name is Gavin McClements. I am a wargamer and family man, living in Los Gatos, which is a suburb of San Jose, CA. Building terrain is one of my favorite aspects of the wargaming hobby - in fact, lately I've become more interested in making my battlefields "pop" than in actually playing.
Showing posts with label Warmaster. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Warmaster. Show all posts

Monday, November 23, 2015

10mm or 6mm terrain for Warmaster?

I just wanted to repost this thread from the Specialist Forums, as it is near and dear to my heart:

Very simply:
"How do you go about with terrain for Warmaster?" He was asking about sizes and terrain templates/area terrain, basically.

My response:
"I play a lot of 6mm, and only Warmaster in 10mm. For me, it made no sense to buy 10mm terrain, so i continue to invest heavily in 6mm terrain."

But the response I wanted to preserve for eternity was that of Gorrin of London:

"Returning to the OP, and to give the two-cents'-worth of input from a (very) seasoned, middle-aged grand scale gamer (newbie to warmaster - but experienced in 2mm, 6mm and 10mm in other rulesets)...well here goes...

I would suggest for inspiration on some "diorama" type boards you google  images search for grand scale terrain master "Bruce Weigle". His late 19th century boards are designed for the (small even for 6mm) Heriocs and Ros range but are a great reference for any scale up to 10-12mm. I believe he makes his buildings at around 60-70% of the scale of the figures to give the grand scale impression. I think that's about right. Scaling for 10mm I'd say that 6mm is about right, and that 10mm scenery is better suited to 15mm games. I agree with Kealios that owning a lot of 6mm and then investing in another bunch of scenery in a scale slightly larger (remember that most 6mm models are 6mm "foot to eye" and that most WM models - especially the infantry - are on the small side of 10mm) is fairly pointless. Total Battle Miniatures 6-7mm Pike and Shotte range is very "oldhammer" in style and the large range can be supplemented further with some of the Napoleonic range - the Napoleon in Russia range fulfilling much of my Kislevite needs.

When asked about the demise of Warhammer and "massed fantasy combat" (writing for his regular column in Wargames, Soldiers and Strategy magazine) Rick Priestley replied: "Massed combat? WFB is a 1:1 game with a skewed groundscale! 120 dwarfs versus 150 orcs isn't massed combat...it's a punch-up in a pub car-park!". I think that how we think about scenery in WM game is a throwback to 1:1 games (WFB is what I'd refer to as "large skirmish") where we are more comfortable with buildings being roughly the same scale as the models, if you want to think of your 30 WM orcs representing 30 orcs and 1 building representing one building in WM then do so by all means...but I don't understand why in those circumstances you wouldn't just play Warhammer with a bit of command and control thrown in.

By its very nature WM is a grand scale game representing massed combat with an emphasis on command and control and which largely plays down the differences in races emphasised in WFB. To play any game at grand scale requires you to immediately get your head around the abstraction of what the battlefield and the models represent. I think from Rick Priestley's original introduction to the game he specifically references that a 3-base regiment represents around six-hundred troops with a five frontage and 720 for those with six. Those of you with large armies, represent this for spectacle sake on your table. It will take twenty full regiments and sixty stands, two deep and thirty across to represent a single regiment in a four-deep line formation in 1:1 scale. They will take up a 1.2 metre frontage on your table. That is what your single 3-stand unit represents. Place a single 10mm scale cottage in front of them, how many of those 600 troops are shielded by that cottage? The regiment can no more claim a "cover" bonus or restricted LOS from that building than you could take shelter from a musket volley by hiding behind a tennis ball.

The truth is that in grand scale games, most of your scenery is just that...scenery - and therefore just there for show. It may sound counter-intuitive, but if you want to represent a farm-house and a barn on a grand scale battlefield - it should not really have any bearing on movement, shooting or LOS. A regiment would not be able to shelter behind nor would they be able to hide behind these buildings which compared to the footprint of the regiment would be absolutely tiny. Likewise the regiment should be able to move through the terrain feature without any penalty with the represented troops affected by the building - maybe around five percent of them - simply running to catch up with their comrades if they were slowed. Any set of buildings whose real-to-scale size could not be imagined to be able to fully obscure at least 200 troops (1 stand's worth) can be ignored. I take a stand in line formation to be in real scale terms to be 4 ranks deep so in dwarf terms that's 60 abreast (45 metres?), any obstruction that I don't think is big enough to cover this size of frontage I ignore as terrain feature.

What is important in grand scale games is agreeing what terrain features ARE important and agreeing on them battle to battle. In my experience the things you need to represent are:

Built up areas - an area containing more than two or three houses from a large hamlet, to villages, towns and parts of cities. The outskirts of the built up areas should be clearly delimited (say with brown cloth and buildings placed on them. The buildings themselves are individually irrelevant (unless specifically required to be relevant such as a temple etc) and the entire built up area should be treated as dense woods. Main roads can exist through the built up area if the players wish but units, must traverse them in column formation only (think I've see rules for these in WM somewhere - something like all sides of a column count as flanks and/or rear).

Woods and forest - as above, but with trees instead of buildings of course (!)

Specific areas of difficult ground - marshes, muddy ploughed fields (such as at Agincourt)

Specific defendable obstacles - walls, ridgelines, sunken roads, earthowrks etc. In these instances I am taking about specific and important defendable battlefield positions only. For example, the stone wall at Fredricksberg, the walls of Hougamont at Waterloo, the sunken road at Antietam, the Pratzen Heights at Austerlitz.

Everything else should have little if no effect, most hedges, gentle slopes (although these may not provide a defendable bonus they may obstruct LOS), thin treelines, small sections of wall, individual buildings or those deemed not to represent "built up areas" as defined above.

Sorry about the epic post! I've probably previously bored all concerned with my ACW terrain but I will try to take some pictures with WM figures to give you an idea - you'll just have to forgive the obviously ACW buildings as I don't have any WM 6mm buildings painted up!!

So for me...I prefer 6mm for 10mm games. Not least because I ignore most buildings the bigger they are the more they get in the way! And also...the 6mm range is massive compared to the 10mm ranges. Irregular miniatures even do a set of metal roofs, doors and windows with pegs you can just push into balsa to make your own. Of course scratch building buildings at this scale in very easy as well compared to 28mm.
2-cents worth...I've spewed out a fool's fortune!!"


Hope this was informative! I've posted these before, but some 10mm Dark Elves in my TBM 6mm village...

Thursday, July 16, 2015

My 10mm Vampire Counts - list building

I initially posted my entry into Warmaster with a dual Wood Elves - Vampire Counts post - but since I am actually using these as references for ideas, etc, I decided to separate the two lists into posts of their own.

Wrath Ruin and the Red Dawn has some amazing conversions for his Vampire Counts army - many of which appear to model the current Warhammer Fantasy 8th Edition army list.

Pendraken Undead models pictured by Turbil

Ultimately I settled on these quantities. For ease of reference, I will link the model's entries on their respective website - I apologize for any broken links in advance.

WARMASTER - 10mm Vampire Counts
6 units of Skeletons
  • 18 bases, 180 model [10 per base]
4 units of Zombies
  • 12 bases, 120 models [10 per]

2 units of Ghouls
  • 6 bases, 60 models [10 per]
2 units of Grave Guard
  • 6 bases, 60 models [10 per]
2 units of Ethereal Host [5 or more per base, TBD]
  • 6 bases, 30-ish models
4 units of Black Knights
  • 12 bases, 48 models [4 per]
2 units of Dire Wolves
  • 6 bases, 12-18 models [2-3 per base because of the model's size]
2 units of Fell Bats
  • 6 bases, 6 models [1 per]
HEROES:
Lots! 2 Generals (1 mounted), 4 Vampires, 2 Wizards...1 Black Coach

And look at this fun thing! It's from DGS Games. It'll be a fun vampire item! I think it could be used as a Winged Nightmare mount, or even a dragon of some sorts for Mayhem?
Wildly Inappropriate NSFW (Language) Fluff that was a blast to read but yea, language, kids!

Black Coach conversion idea

My Order list [NOTE: I love variety, and have mixed and matched excessively, compulsively, and in some cases, maybe foolishly...]:

*Since I originally made this order with my Wood Elves, I've left that part of the entry intact*
Miniature Resellers links:
Eureka Minis in Australia
[163.75 from the US store, and 124.03 from the Aussie store [qtys in US were limited] - $43AU for S/H!]
Eureka mini's USA branch
Copplestone Castings in the UK [$43.18 USD w/shipping]
  • Evil Characters [TM9] x2 - for Heroes, etc
  • Heroes on Horseback [TM16] x1 - for Wood Elf Heroes
  • Rangers [TM17] x1 - to sprinkle into Waywatchers, etc
Kallistra in the UK [$117 UK pounds w/shipping and "Buy 6-pay for 5" sale]
  • Historical Miniatures:
  • EEM The Impaled  [H-3019] x1 - for fun
  • 100YW Men-at-Arms [H-901] x3 [4 bases per] - for my Grave Guard based on this link (I'll paint skin/faces as white with black gaps and hope for the best)
  • 100YW Command [H-908] x1 - because Command :)
  • Fantasy Miniatures:
  • Skeleton Warriors [301] x5 [4 bases per] - for my main Skeleton horde
  • Zombie Horde [307] x3 [4 bases per] - my main Zombie horde
  • Undead Command [309] x1 [30+ figs] - Command/Heroes and fun
  • Tormented Spirits [308] x1 [4 bases, 16 figs] - for Ethereal Host, combined with Pendraken Wraiths
  • Skeleton Cavalry [302] x3 [4 bases per] - Black Knights
Pendraken in the UK
Pendraken's models through the War Store (US) [I placed this via email request to Neal, since some of the SKU's werent on their website] [$76.90 USD w/shipping]:
  • FE4 (Wood Elf Command) x1
    FE10 (Wood Elf Hero) x1
    AC24 (Mixed Ghouls) x6
    FU14 (Wraiths/Spirits) x2
    FU5 (Undead Command) x2
    FU26 (Undead Hero) x1
    FU13 (Undead Vampires) x1
    AC12 (Swarm of Bats) x6
    SYW12 (7 Years War Civilians) x1
    SYW10 (17/18th Century Carriage) x1
    AC2 (Helpless Maidens) x1
    AC4 (Zombies rising from the Grave) x1
    AC23 (Crucified Mummy) x1
Magister Militum in the UK [$37.38 USD w/shipping]
Khurasan Miniatures in the US [$24.65 USD w/ Shipping]
  • 15mm Fantasy items: 
  • Vampires [MYST-200] x1 [2 models] - for Heroes
  •  Zombie Wolves [MYST-202] x3 [6 models per] - for Dire Wolves
  • Jon Laney, Werewolf [MYST-203] x1 - for Hero or to lead DWs
Microworld Games - 6mm in the US [$23 total w/ shipping]
 > Because Kerynne.com offered some great ideas
Splintered Light 15mm minis in the US [$34 total w/ shipping]
For actual lists, I threw this together:
http://wm-selector.appspot.com/army_selector.html?list=vampirecounts&label=&print=l,sl,sr,miu,sp&0=6&1=6&2=2&3=4&4=2&5=3&6=2&7=2&8=1&9=2&9-0=1&9-1=1&10=2&10-WP=1&10-RR=1

A really good idea from http://theultimatewarmaster.com/2013/07/ :
 " Due to the nature of the undead army and being able to raise new units in battle (which are worth no victory point’s, and contribute nothing towards army break point). I was wondering how I can depict these without confusing myself and my opponent. So after having a quick chat to my local GW manager, I came up with the idea of painting the Skeleton Warriors ethereal.

The idea is to have at least 4 of these units painted. It was quite simple to do. I undercoated black, dry brushed the whole unit white and then gave it a blue wash. I am thinking of giving the whole unit a very faint white dry brush again. Not too sure yet."

http://hetairoiwargames.blogspot.co.uk/2013/02/wm-ethereal-host.html  is another site with spirit hosts, so easily painted!

And this Black Coach:



Friday, June 26, 2015

Warmaster Nippon list building

I've been eyeing the Nippon list as something that looks fun. They also look to be reasonably balanced with lots of options to keep the list from getting stale. For some ideas of fluff, check out https://docs.google.com/file/d/0B_Redi9cZJ5iYXlDT0xjcGxOaVE/edit from http://warhammerarmiesproject.blogspot.se/

Alternatively, this is a variation on the Fan list from the 2009 Armies book.

One note: If I go with Magister Militum as I am inclined to, you'll see a size difference between the Nippons and my other armies. Here is a MM Ashigaru (with spear) compared to the far left model, a Eureka Elf Archer:
As a side note, I just discovered www.castlearts-it.com/ so will have to check out their tasty items!

Samurai - Magister Militum has a splendid line. Some Mix-and-Match could be fun between the ranged and hand-weapon models, since Samurai are a 3/1 unit.
http://www.magistermilitum.com/scale/10mm/sam1-samurai-command.html
 http://www.magistermilitum.com/scale/10mm/sam2-samurai-bowmen.html
http://www.magistermilitum.com/scale/10mm/sam3-samurai-with-hand-weapons.html

Kallistra is neat because they come in strips - but so far, I've been very impressed with MM's models.

Ashigaru Spearmen: Again, many choices. http://www.magistermilitum.com/scale/10mm/sam6-ashigaru-with-spears.html seem like a good way to go - their spears arent too long, which seems to be an issue the Kallistra spearmen have?


Ronin: It seems that the only way to differentiate these from Samurai, since according to reports I've read, ronin were allowed to keep their arms, is the back banner - so let's try some models without those.
Kallistra H-9002 Foot Samurai seem to fit the bill:

http://pendraken.co.uk/Renaissance-c12/Samurai-sc41/ has other options as well.

Warrior Monks: http://www.magistermilitum.com/scale/10mm/sam8-warrior-monks.html seem an obvious choice.
 Zealot Monks - http://eurekaminusa.com/collections/fantasy-10mm-by-alan-marsh/products/400fan34 seem perfect, and the "wizard" look might help out the Command stands a bit.


Shrine:Check this out! http://www.castlearts-it.com/index.php?page=prodotti&cat=giappone&scat=ES has the perfect shrine!
Temple Imps: These are basically kobolds, from what I can gather online.

Temple Oni: http://www.15mm.co.uk/products/sgfp02-oni-pack (they're a bit large, listed at 23mm tall, but oh well...)

A smaller version could just be the "Ogres" from Eureka - not as cool looking, though!

Tengu: http://www.15mm.co.uk/products/sgfp01-tengu-pack (again, a tad big at 20mm, but oh well)

Samurai Cavalry: MM again has the most dynamic poses that I can see, and the archers and swords are split already.
http://www.magistermilitum.com/scale/10mm/sam4-mounted-samurai.html


Temple Dogs: I would LOVE to use some Eureka Ki-Rin or Fu-Dogs for these. Regarding if the riders come separate, Eureka's response was, "All of the sets 400FAN35-40 come with separate riders, none are one piece." So YES, this will work!

Another great option is http://www.magistermilitum.com/scale/10mm/fmc615-temple-lion-dogs-x9.html

Daimyo / Abbot: Likely a few choices in the many Command packs I've located. I'm SURE I'll have enough...

Pendraken has a Seated General. He's, well, not intimidating, but what the heck.


Hatamoto: Again, the Command packs will have figures I can use.

Dragonne: This is going to have to be converted, I think. How about Lions from Splintered Light  (15mm...seems appropriate):
 ...and wings from a Eureka Gorgon rider? (hopefully they'll scale well)
For the rider, well...I hate to say it, but maybe a Samurai Ape from Pendraken? He seems to be one of the only separately modeled rider I can find - and I can paint the face as a mask - easy enough!

Or...I could just try this Winged Lion from Iron Wind:
(This was done here, methinks, or very close):

Or...a "Drakkone" from IW:


Retinue: So many models needed!
Kallistra's "H-9006 Samurai Command" and "H-9010 Samurai Banners and Standards"
Pendraken's http://pendraken.co.uk/SAM20-p2952/ 
NINJA! http://www.magistermilitum.com/scale/10mm/sam9-ninja.html

Lastly, not for Warmaster so much but for Mayhem, maybe, here is a Celestial Dragon from Iron Wind:

Companies:
Magister Militum:
 15mm.co.uk
  • Tengu x2
  • Oni x2
Kallistra
  • H-9006 Samurai Command x2
  • H-9010 Samurai Banners and Standards x1
  • H-9002 Foot Samurai x2
  • HK-106 Korean Command (variety, maybe?) x1
Splintered Light
  • MISC02 Lions x1

Eureka
  • 400FAN13 Gorgon Rider x1
  • 400FAN34 Shaolin Monks x4 (?) - need 4 units
  • 400FAN37 Fu-Dogs x2 at least

Pendraken

Of note:
Irregular Minis 10mm Samurai
TSAM 1,2 Mounted samurai TSAM 3,4 foot samurai TSAM 6,7 Ashigaru

*This is also a good reference, as he gives his opinions on what to use:
http://ricks-warmaster.com/Sengoku%20Japan.pdf

TERRAIN: Fujimi has some cool 1/300 scale castles available at Hobby Link Japan.


http://folk.uio.no/arnsteio/samurai/  has some historical comments about the different manufacturer's historical lines, if interested. To summarize:

"Pendraken: Pose = Several of Pendraken's figures have an earlyish sengoku feeling; e.g. their ashigaru bowman has no armour, and their Ashigaru Spear has no jingasa helmet, just a hachimaki head band.  All samurai cavalry were attended by go-kenin; these are probably best made with Pendraken's running figures, though I mix in some AIM for variety. Pendraken's "SAM8 Ashigaru Naginata" is very useful; with a straightened weapon it is a charging yari-wielding ashigaru in standard-issue ashigaru kit. Their armed peasants make for great variety.

Irregular: Pose = Quite static. Although Irregular has the weakest range, their figures will enhance the visuals of your army when complementing the other brands. I like the variety their straw raincoats can provide. None of Irregular's figures have yari, just naginata. This is unfortunate. TSAM6 is possibly the most useful 10mm samurai figure on the market (naginata-wielding ashigaru in standard-issue kit, standing at attention), doing time as nagae-yari wielder or banner bearer (I exchange his short naginata for a long piano wire) and a host of "standing around"-related tasks.

I use Pendraken and Irregular cavalry together; this gives a good choice between active and passive poses. Samurai horses were small (130cm to the shoulder) so it can't be that bad."

Castle Arts claims: "My models are fully compatible with Pendraken, other clubs have already bought my samurai and integrated them perfectly."

In all my blisters the sashimono (samurai or ashigaru) are INCLUDED.
AIM (?) seems to be the middle between these two, but seems out of print

Banners and Historical Resources
Amazing Samurai resource: http://www.samurai-archives.com and check out their banners at http://www.samurai-archives.com/mon.html because sometimes it's neat to replicate real world stuff! See some of it in cool pictures here.

Painting: (taken from http://theminiaturespage.com/boards/msg.mv?id=384752)
"The good thing is that the "rules" for army painting when it comes to sengoku period armies should be seen as more of a general guideline. It's not like Napoleonic armies, and you can find examples of all kinds of ways that armies looked, from those who were almost uniform and well structured towards the end of the period, to some forces that were little more than a bunch of haphazardly equipped troops with very little in common.

Here are the general "rules" as I interpret them after reading a bunch of books (some better than others):

1) Armour were laquered, with black being by far the most common colour. On second place you will find rust-brown, and then red. Far lower than these you will find unusual laquer like blue, gold and green, which were unlikely to be worn by rank-and-file.

2) Dresses were usually not uniform, with samurai typically wearing more expensive and colourful dresses, and ashigaru and peasants wearing everything from barely a loincloth to dresses with more dull colours like brown, grey and buff.

3) Uniforms were rare, and most troops were responsible for getting their own gear, or had them provided by their direct feudal lord. So even if a lord dressed his 25 guys equally, his neighbour would not dress his guys exactly the same. Generally, places with more resources had more opportunities for mass-equipping troops, and you would see more uniformity in equipment and heraldry the later you get in the period.

Units wearing predominately red, for example, are usually from the latter part of the period, when power had started to get centralized around a few leaders. But even the famously "all red" army of Ii, were likely not able to equip their entire army with uniforms, and it was more likely that they could muster front ranks wearing mostly red.

4) Heraldry, in the form of different types of banners, were the main way to identify military formations on the field. Not dresses or armour.

For me, especially at 6mm, these "rules" means that I tend to take some artistic license. If you paint an army with mostly black armour and just random colours for the sleeves and pants, it won't look all that inspiring on the battlefield. Especially not if you have two opposing armies looking more or less similar. So I tend to use coloured armour far more than is realistic, and also semi-uniform dresses.

For example, when I paint my two Takeda contingents, I decided to go with red armour on one, and green on the other. Very unhistorical, but it looks great. For both the red and green armoured ones I paint most of the dresses blue, white or yellow. Also unhistorical, but this means that I get some kind of cohesion between the contingents by using the same palette for the secondary colours.
Most importantly, this means that I get the whole Takeda army to look very different from the opposing army, which has all black armour, with Tokugawa forces wearing mostly blue dresses, and Hosokawa wearing mostly red dresses. Finally, the banners ties the different contingents together.

(Example of varying Takeda banners tieing together the army with uniform colours, despite armour being different. From left: Takeda, Takeda, Hosokawa, Tokugawa, Takeda, Takeda, Takeda)

So, basically I disregard "rule" 2, no uniform dresses, to make the armies look more interesting in 6mm. I find that the scale demands that you paint with strong colours and bold colour schemes, or the minis will just blend into each other. So I might be even more ahistorical in this scale, simple because painting 6mm is a different beast than painting 15mm or 28mm.

As I see it, you can decide to go for representing a historical look as close as you can, or use some artistic license. Personally I use periods with more rigid uniformity (Napoleonics and WW2) to get that aspect of the hobby, and I use less rigid periods (Sengoku Japan, Medieval Europe) to make more "fanciful" armies. As long as you are honest about which way you go, do what suits your passion, and paint according to the end result that you have in mind.

Edit: just because I can't shut up:

When painting Baccus 6mm samurai, I find that I have a limited number of areas to use to convey a colour scheme. These are
1) The armour
2) The pants and sleeves
3) The belt and sun cover on the jingasa helmets of ashigaru
4) The banners


The scale is simply too small and the number of soldiers too large for the lacing on the armour to be a) possible to paint without investing too much time, and b) visible on the finished rank-and-file troops. I do paint them on generals and stuff though.

So, for a 6mm army, I find that if you keep two or three of these areas similar for an entire contingent, you can vary the others and still keep them looking uniform, without looking identical. You will typically want to paint at least one of them in a striking colour, and another one in a contrasting colour that makes the striking colour more visible.

What does this mean? For example, I find that painting the belts and sun cover on the helmets white is a great way to make a dark coloured armour visible. Combine it with a bright colour on the sleeves and pants, and the whole miniature becomes visible, despite them being small. If I went with a dark blue belt, the whole torso and upper legs would risk looking like a blur. With a red armour, you could go with a very light blue or yellow belt, and still get this contrast.

This also affects my choice of colour on banners and sleeves/pants. For example, in the picture you can see that the Hosokawa has a bright yellow banner, black armour, and red pants/sleeves. I find that the two bold colours make a good match, and the black and white areas inbetween them (armour and belt) helps to keep them from "bleeding" into each other.

So, if you are unsure of where to begin with painting 6mm samurai, you could always make a general plan of attack based on these areas. Decide which ones you want uniform and which ones you want to vary (depending on how historical you want to be), and think about if you can put more neutral colours (like black or white) in between the more striking colours."

My Reintroduction to Warmaster

I had my reintroduction battle to Warmaster over the weekend with my friend Aron and his wonderfully painted armies. As we sat to choose our armies, he asked, "What do you want to play?" "What do you have," I asked. "All of them" was the response :)  Gotta love it.

We ended up choosing his High Elves vs my Dark Elves, 2000 points. This isnt a full battle report, but a few pics of the action and some comments.

The formation of 3 melee units in column with a ranged unit spread across their front made for a nice brigade. Dark Elf shooting is brutal up close, but surprisingly the crossbowmen actually fought well in hand to hand!
 The forced drive back of ranged is a little much, I think. It seems like something that units should be able to defend against instead of automatically going back if they suffer even a single hit. This ranged battle between his elves in the barn yard and my line of crossbows by the church went back and forth. Invariably the unit that fell back would just march back forward to their former position, but I guess that's part of the game, right? It takes an order to do so, which is a potential fail...
Once the Hydra got in battle, Oh Lord...however, this photo illustrates my core problem with the command mechanic of Warmaster.

In the top left, you can see a Dragon Rider escorting a brigade of Silver Helms, and in the left forefront you can see my Dark Riders. My riders got one order and advanced to this position; they then took one hit and the right column was driven back 2cm...there they stayed the rest of the game. The High Elves had it worse, though. Those knights NEVER MOVED. Aron even swapped out commanders towards the end, trying to do anything to get them into the fight.
I guess that's the game, though, right? Things dont go the way you want...but it rankles a bit still. Oh well. Here you can see the Cold Ones tearing up some archers on the hill to the right flank - good fun and eats!
 This is mostly where we ended it. You can see the High Elf dead pile in the top left, while mine was significantly shorter.
I blame this video on my win :)  Aron had purchased some new dice specifically because of this balance video, and his new dice arrived in the mail as we were setting up the game - and they rolled horribly!
 So over all, I had a really enjoyable time. I am buying 10mm armies for Mayhem, but might as well make them Warmaster-legal, right? I also bought a copy of the Battle of Five Armies rules, as Aron informed me that they are pretty much the Warmaster Ancients + Magic, etc combined.

I really didnt like that both of us had units sitting around doing nothing for the entire game. A "standing order" or "guaranteed first turn order" house rule that I've read about might fix this - but I'll try to get over it. Until next time!

Sunday, June 14, 2015

Assembling the Warmaster Wood Elves pt. 1

Most everything has arrived for my two new Warmaster armies. I've walked my hotel through a complete renovation before, and the paperwork that was required then was enormous - I felt a bit similar as I tracked all the different manufacturers and orders coming in for this project.

Again referencing Athens Fantasy's blog, I started sorting my Eureka into the different poses. Let me say this about Eureka models: SO MUCH FLASH! Seriously, though...they're nice models, but cleaning them is going to be a LOT of work, and some models are really bent out of shape or slightly broken (bows, spears, etc).

Honestly, I felt like I was sorting a CCG instead of models from a renowned manufacturer, because of the 7 packs of Eureka archers I ordered, no two were identical in quantities. After all was said and done, I ended up with:
Pose 1: 48
Pose 2: 47
Pose 3: 7
Pose 4: 7
Pose 5: 6 (!!)
Pose 6: 48
Pose 7: 48

I guess in the end, things mostly averaged out, but yea, one pack didn't even have the Standard Bearer (#5) in it!

I also had 7 packs of the Infantry to sort.
These were even more random in their quantities, assuming because there were 8 poses instead of 7 (and at least every pack had their 3 command models!). I ended up with:
Pose 1: 43
Pose 2:37
Pose 3: 7
Pose 4: 7
Pose 5: 7
Pose 6: 44
Pose 7: 38
Pose 8: 36

Here is the sorted, non-cleaned up lot:
I don't have my Pendraken models yet (ordered from The War Store on May 7th...almost a month ago), but here are some comparisons with Copplestone, Eureka, and Magister Militum.

On the left is Eureka 400FAN24, on the right is Magister Militum FEF-404. MM is bigger and nicer, but they should mix nicely I think, especially since Eureka is much more dynamic in pose.
This is a Eureka archer 400FAN07 on the left, with a Copplestone Casting TM17 Ranger on the right. CC is HUGE compared to Eureka, with the head of the model on the right coming to 13mm, and the Eureka model being almost exactly at 10mm (the base is included here). I will likely compensate by putting the smaller models in the back to try a little "forced perspective"...fortunately I don't have many CC models, and the Pendraken models coming are mostly for the Vampires.
These are some Tree Kin and Dryads options. Leftmost is the 15mm Splintered Light Dryads (note the dryad in the tree is about the same size as the farmost right model), then SL Wood Trolls, 6mm Lesser Treekin from Microworld Games, and lastly a dryad from the Eureka Woodland Creatures package.
Finally, the big guys. On the left is the Eureka Wood Troll, then Splintered Light 15mm Treeman #2, and then the Microworld Forest Giant.
More as I get more sorted and organized...

Thursday, May 7, 2015

Warmaster resources

Not sure if these are relevant still or not, but this seemed like a good place to mark some of the things I've found over the past month while surfing the internet.

The best place to get the game itself. Look for "Warmaster Living Rules" :)
http://www.darkagepress.com/WarmasterDownloads.html

The Specialist Games forums - this is a link to a lot of what I have below:
http://www.forum.specialist-arms.com/index.php?topic=403.0

THE most inspiring Blog I've found on Napoleonic building as mini-dioramas - and because of this, my wallet went KA-BLAM over at Total Battle Miniatures and Levin Miniatures!
https://sologeneral.wordpress.com/terrain-and-scenery/

Campaign rules and a repository of Warmaster rules supplements
http://www.darkagepress.com/WarmasterDownloads.html

This seems to be a fully functional army builder online, with links to some of the Warmaster PDFs.
http://wm-selector.appspot.com/

This guy has some neat entries on terrain and Warmaster units he has done.
http://warmasterdk.blogspot.com/?m=1

Another repository of Warmaster files, including counters for gaming
https://sites.google.com/site/wmplaytest/work-in-progress-1/publications

In case you don't have models and want some counters to play with:
http://ordinarygaming.blogspot.com/p/warmaster-counters.html

Some reviews of 6mm Buildings
http://declaresir.blogspot.com/2015/04/contemplating-ecw-terrain.html?m=1

A fantastic PDF on making small-scale forests - like, FORESTS, not individual trees clumped around each other :)
http://architectsofwar.com/Howto/forests.pdf

My foray into 10mm Warmaster - Wood Elves


[EDIT] This was originally a dual post about Wood Elves and Vampire Counts, but I separated the VC into their own post...

It's time. I've wanted to own some 10mm armies for some time now - mainly for Mayhem, but also for Warmaster since it is the more dominant game locally.

I decided to get Wood Elves because I'm an elfy-kind of guy, and for the bad guys, well, I love vampires, so Vampire Counts was an easy choice.

Of course, any time you enter into a new game system, the army list you write up to buy may not be what you end up playing with. This can be for a number of reasons, but I find it usually stems from lack of knowledge, unfamiliarity with what actually works, or just being attracted to the bling (or all of the above!). Since finding army lists was a challenge, I wrote up some lists of what I thought I'd need, and then sourced out the models.

Athens Fantasy was KEY to my feelings of success (I suppose "success" will only be determined once all my moving pieces arrive and are assembled into what will, ultimately, be my final product).

He also wrote a list for Wood Elves which I combined with This and this. The Wood Elves Warmaster army list is here.

One problem I found with selecting the different manufacturers was the lack of pictures on different websites. I turned to the web for help.

Ultimately I settled on these quantities. For ease of reference, I will link the model's entries on their respective website - I apologize for any broken links in advance.
WARMASTER - 10mm Wood Elves

2 units of Dryads
  • 6 bases, 18-30 models [3-5 per base, TBD]
4 units of Glade Guard
  • 12 bases, 120 models [10 per]
2 units of Wardancers
  • 6 bases, ~30 models with dogs [5-ish per, TBD]
3 units of Wild Riders
  • 9 bases, 27 models [3 per, because of model's size]
3 units of Treekin
  • 9 bases, 18-27 models [TBD, models undecided]
3 units of Warhawk Riders
  • 9 bases, 9 models [1 per]
2 units of Waywatchers
  • 2 bases, 10 models [5-ish per]
2 units of Treemen
  • 2 bases, 2 models [1 per]
2 units of Giant Eagles
  • 6 bases, 6 models [1 per]
1 Dragon
  • ?


HEROES:
2 Generals (1 mounted?), 2 Heroes, 2 Wizards (1 on a Unicorn?), 2 Branch Wizards (magical Dryads - models TBD)

My Order list [NOTE: I love variety, and have mixed and matched excessively, compulsively, and in some cases, maybe foolishly...]:

Miniature Resellers links:
Eureka Minis in Australia
[163.75 from the US store, and 124.03 from the Aussie store [qtys in US were limited] - $43AU for S/H!]
Eureka mini's USA branch
Copplestone Castings in the UK [$43.18 USD w/shipping]
  • Evil Characters [TM9] x2 - for Heroes, etc
  • Heroes on Horseback [TM16] x1 - for Wood Elf Heroes
  • Rangers [TM17] x1 - to sprinkle into Waywatchers, etc
Kallistra in the UK [$117 UK pounds w/shipping and "Buy 6-pay for 5" sale]
  • Historical Miniatures:
  • EEM The Impaled  [H-3019] x1 - for fun
  • 100YW Men-at-Arms [H-901] x3 [4 bases per] - for my Grave Guard based on this link (I'll paint skin/faces as white with black gaps and hope for the best)
  • 100YW Command [H-908] x1 - because Command :)
  • Fantasy Miniatures:
  • Skeleton Warriors [301] x5 [4 bases per] - for my main Skeleton horde
  • Zombie Horde [307] x3 [4 bases per] - my main Zombie horde
  • Undead Command [309] x1 [30+ figs] - Command/Heroes and fun
  • Tormented Spirits [308] x1 [4 bases, 16 figs] - for Ethereal Host, combined with Pendraken Wraiths
  • Skeleton Cavalry [302] x3 [4 bases per] - Black Knights
Pendraken in the UK
Pendraken's models through the War Store (US) [I placed this via email request to Neal, since some of the SKU's werent on their website] [$76.90 USD w/shipping]:
  • FE4 (Wood Elf Command) x1
    FE10 (Wood Elf Hero) x1
    AC24 (Mixed Ghouls) x6
    FU14 (Wraiths/Spirits) x2
    FU5 (Undead Command) x2
    FU26 (Undead Hero) x1
    FU13 (Undead Vampires) x1
    AC12 (Swarm of Bats) x6
    SYW12 (7 Years War Civilians) x1
    SYW10 (17/18th Century Carriage) x1
    AC2 (Helpless Maidens) x1
    AC4 (Zombies rising from the Grave) x1
    AC23 (Crucified Mummy) x1
Magister Militum in the UK [$37.38 USD w/shipping]
Khurasan Miniatures in the US [$24.65 USD w/ Shipping]
  • 15mm Fantasy items: 
  • Vampires [MYST-200] x1 [2 models] - for Heroes
  •  Zombie Wolves [MYST-202] x3 [6 models per] - for Dire Wolves
  • Jon Laney, Werewolf [MYST-203] x1 - for Hero or to lead DWs
Microworld Games - 6mm in the US [$23 total w/ shipping]
 > Because Kerynne.com offered some great ideas
Splintered Light 15mm minis in the US [$34 total w/ shipping]
DRYADS: I want the bases to look a little like this from Kerynne's site:

I also added 2 dragons from Ebay for silly prices...I got a High Elf on Dragon and a Chaos Dragon as well. I think this is looking pretty complete. Now that it's all headed in my direction, I get the tak of assembling, painting and basing, etc...I'll report back as I get more action done on the forces.

[EDIT 6/5/2015 - Rebel Minis just announced a "line" of 10mm figs for their Mighty Armies game, which currently consists of Wood Elves and Orcs. Well, damn! I'll be picking up an army for fun's sake!]

Friday, March 29, 2013

Mayhem 10mm Fantasy Battle Report

For anyone who knows me or has read my Blog, they know I love two things:
1. Build-Your-Own units and army lists, and
2. Fantasy

...errr..."But this is a Sci-Fi Blog!", you say, and yes, you'd be correct. However, my first foray into the world of miniature wargaming was Warhammer Fantasy Battles, 6th Ed, back in 2002-2003, and I had some epic, memorable battles. I was enthralled...but as WFB has gotten stranger and stranger and more, well, GW-ized, I left it for other games and other scales (I'm selling my Orcs and Goblins, if you're interested!).

6mm Sci-Fi has captured my heart of late, mostly because I wasn't a huge fan of the Warmaster Fantasy ruleset and the Sci-Fi versions of it (Future War Commander). Lately I've been willing to give FWC a shot, but for this report, let's say that I got sidetracked by Brent Spivey's fantastic new offering called Mayhem.

If you haven't read the Harrison's Ford AAR yet, I recommend you doing so. It is well told, explains the ideas and mechanics behind Mayhem, and has some better pictures than I am about to show you. I managed to borrow some Warmaster units from my friend Thomas Foss (please visit his blog at http://skullandcrown.blogspot.com/ for amazing pictures of the models I used today, as well as a LOT of Warmaster pics!), put together some armies for the Humans and Orcs, and had a go of it. Sadly, my Opponent-to-Be bailed on me, but as this has happened in the past, I was ready for the solo effort.

To do some explaining of my own, the Movement and Combat Quality stats are done by dice types. The mechanic knows as the Versus mechanic allows you to always choose whether to take the Default value (which is one-half the dice size, so a 3 on a d6) OR take a Danger roll, rolling the dice and taking the results. I love it.  As for CQ, the smaller the die type, the better, because in combat, you want to roll lower than your opponent in an opposed check, with a Natural 1 being an auto-kill most of the time.

At first I feared that, even with this neat Versus mechanic, it was going to be little more than a gimmick for what could turn out to be yet another overly-simplistic game engine. I've seen 2-stat units before, and they don't tend to impress me. Well, Mayhem gets it right. Most Troop Types get traits unique to themselves, and Weapons which can be added to these units act as Counters versus different types (called Designations). A Soft Counter improves your Die Type by one (so a unit with CQ d12 would be a d10 in that particular combat), and a Hard Counter improves the Die by two. You also get extra dice to roll in the combat based on different circumstances, which I will point out during the Battle Report. In short, this leads to an awful lot of variety in combat, and I feel it works really, really well.

The other cool mechanic is the Overdrive, which allows a unit to keep going and going as needed, but each time you activate the same unit in a turn, the cost in Command Points to do so increases. This allows you to spread your points around to the whole army, or really zoom in and focus on one or two units as needed. You can even bounce around between units, ie move one unit back to open LOS for some archers, shoot with those archers, then move the original unit back in place...

Mayhem uses Crowns as the currency for Points, and 150 Crowns is a good starting value to learn with.

*Really quick, let me apologize for the pictures. I even went as far as getting the tripod out to get ready for this report, but using the Macro setting and being back a few feet didn't work as magically as I had hoped :(

Humans: 150 crowns

Profiles:
Spearmen: Mov d6, CQ d10, Infantry, Spear, Ranked Fighting [8 crowns]
Heavy Foot: Mov d6, CQ d10, Infantry, Heavy Armor, Swords, Shields [9c]
Crossbows: Mov d6, CQ d12, Infantry, Crossbows [11c]
Heavy Cavalry: Mov d10, CQ d10, Cavalry, Heavy Armor, Lance, Steadfast [16c]
Griffon Rider: Mov d10, CQ d8, Cavalry, Flyer, Blunt weapon, Shield, Heavy Armor, Terror [25c]* (originally I had built the Griffon with Beat Back, but learned later that this wasn't legal...)
Fanatics: Mov d6, CQ d10, Infantry, Great Weapons, Berserker, Fearless, Heavy Armor

I figured the Humans were orderly, and reasonably well trained, but had their CQ lower than the Orcs because I like to envision that Orcs are just nastier and stronger...

List:
4) Army Leadership: d10 [Leadership Rolls: 4d10]
24) 3x Spearmen
32) 3x Heavy Foot, 1 Standard, 2x Musician, 1 Elite unit (upgraded to CQ d8 for free)
11) 1x Crossbows
20) 1x Heavy Cavalry, 1 Standard, 1 Musician
16) General, using Heavy Cavalry profile
27) 1x Griffon Rider (with its illegal 2-point Push Back ability factored in)
16) 1x Fanatic



Orcs: 150 crowns

Profiles:
Orc General: Mov d10, CQ d8, Cavalry, Great Weapon, Heavy Armor [16c]
Orc Swords: Mov d6, CQ d10, Infantry, Sword, Shield [6c]
Orc Spears: Mov d6, CQ d8, Infantry, Spear, Shield [8c]
Wolf Skirmisher: Mov d10, CQ d12, Cavalry, Short Bow (downgraded to d10/d20 because of their Cavalry designation) [16c]
Wolf-Riding Hero: Mov d10, CQ d10, Cavalry, Sword, Shield, Hero [18c]
Giant: stats in book [35c]

List:
4) Army Leadership: d10 [Leadership Rolls: 5d10]
16) 1x Orc General
31) 4x Orc Swords, 1 Elite, 1 Banner, 4 Musicians
11) 1x Orc Spears, 1 Standard
35) 2x Wolf Skirmishers, 1 Standard (who originally had a musician.../sigh....if only...)
18) 1x Wolf Hero
35) 1x Giant



I went for more mobile ranged attack, hoping to get some good flank harassment from the bows on the Wolf Riders. Cheap troops seem to do just fine in this game. We'll see.

The battle would take place on a 3'x3' Swamp board. I set up a church that the Humans were to defend, but really, it was just to be a slugfest. Had I a human opponent, it would have been a slaughter to the man, but with just myself to blame, I used the Default game-ending scenario of the first General to die loses (Duh...that makes sense, right?).

Deployment Zones: 9" (the game calls for 1/4 of the board's width to be Deployments on either side). The Orcs deployed first:


 The left has a unit of 2 Swords next to the Spears (the unit that has the General behind them). The other 2 units of Swords are to their right [quickly: each turn you roll for Command Points to order your troops with. The game has a formation called the Advance that allows 1CP to move up to 3 "squared-up" units at once, but with no maneuvering or turning allowed...thus these formations]

The Giant towers by his lonesome in the center, with the two units of Skirmishers and the Wolf Hero on the far right. Units must be in "range" of a Hero when receiving orders, or their actions cost more. This command range is dependent on the Designation of the closest Hero (orders do not come from any specific hero like they do in Warmaster, but rather, you just have to be "in range" of a Hero). I knew those Wolfies would be out and about, spreading their mischief far and wide, which is why I paid extra for the Hero to accompany them.

Next, the Humans:



The Human Left Flank has the Crossbows on a small rise (hoping to gain the extra die for their to-hit rolls). The 3 Spears are ready for an Advance, and the Fanatics are causing ferocious noises just behind them. The Heavy Horse with the General occupy the center, with the 3 Heavy Foot clustered to the Right Flank. Just off behind the massive tree is the Griffon Rider, being as sneaky as he could be.

Turn 1: Orcs
The Orcs roll 5d10 for Command Points and get 10 (roll +1 die per Elite unit, Standard, and extra Hero after the General, taking the highest value).

The Block of Spears and Swords advanced their Default twice [3CP for 2 Actions].
The 2 units of Wolf Skirmishers Advance twice also, moving 10" [3CP]
The Giant in the center decides to Move twice, rolling his Danger rolls each time, and nets 13" of movement for his 3CP. He rushes the church and hollers threats and insults at the units he knows to be lurking behind the woods.
The Block of 2 Swords Advance once, and the General and Wolf Hero each get their free Move because neither had Activated during the turn.



Turn 1: Humans
The Humans get 8 CP from their 4d10.

The Spears Advance twice for 6" [3CP], and the Heavy Foot Advance once for 3" [1CP].
The Knights, General in tow (he has actually "joined" the unit here), sense action as the Wolf Skirmishers move down the Human's left flank. A burst of speed (7") leaves the Knights clammoring for more...



...but the next Danger roll failed to deliver, and the Knights skitter forward a mere 2". The Wolves are safe, for now.

The Fanatics also roll poorly, moving just 2" in support of their General.



Turn 2: Orcs [9CP]
The Wolf Skirmishers race to gain the flank of the Heavy Horse, but only get a 5" on their Danger roll. They decide to push on [3CP], this time rolling 8", which allows them to hit the Crossbow unit.

Since this was the angle of impact:

...I decided to let them wrap to the flank. Impact hits allow units that have them (notably Cavalry and Chariots) to Initiate combat without spending the CP required by all other units. Initiating the Melee (which Impacts count as) also give 1 extra die in the attack, and Impacts are Soft Counters vs Infantry, Cavalry and Beasts, so the normal CQd12 is improved to d10's. 2d10 vs 1d12 saw the Crossbowmen steel themselves and fend off the Wolf attacks. The Skirmishers suffer a Disordered token, and if they get beat once more with that token on, will be eliminated.

The other unit of Skirmishers roll an 8" for their move, running past the Heavy Cavalry and turning to their left (effectively cutting off the cavalry from the Crossbows). They then loose with Short Bows at the Cavalry, using the Volley ability of their bows to send the Knights packing. However, 3d20 vs 1d10 resulted in a tie (remember, lower is better), and the Horse stayed put and the Wolves looked worried.

The last 3CP allow each of the 3 foot units near the center to reposition themselves, with the General close behind.



Turn 2: Humans [7CP]
2 of the 3 clustered Heavy Foot advance on the Human Right for 1CP, leaving the third behind as reinforcements and counter-charges (in this game, any of your units that are forced to flee will be destroyed if they touch another unit or terrain, so keeping space seems to be vital).

3CP allow the 3 central Spears units to reposition (1 balked a bit, rolling 1" on his Danger roll).



Needing 4.25" to reach the Wolf Skirmishers who were harrasing the Knights with Volley Fire, the Fanatics gamble and take their Danger Roll. They get a 6" on their d6, and hit the Wolves in the flank. Using Overdrive to engage, they didnt have the last CP needed to make use of their Great Weapons, but rolling 3d10 (+1 for Initiating, +1 for Flank) vs 1d12, the Fanatics got a Natural 1, slaughtering the Orcs to a man!

This is the End of Turn 2:


INTERMISSION!

My wife caught me in the act of, errr, playing with myself?!



Turn 3: Orcs [10CP]
The Wolf Skirmishers still engaged with the Crossbows are surprised to be still alive, especially given their vantage point and the carnage their brothers nearby just suffered. Instead of Rallying, they decide to Fight On (costing them extra CP to Initiate the battle, and risking losing and death). 3d12 vs 1d12 gives a victory to the Orcs, and now both units have a Disordered token. Being isolated and so deep behind the lines, they prepare to say their last.

The central Orc Spears tries charging a Human Spear unit, but a 2" leaves it a bit short. The Elite Swords next to them show them how it is done, however, and hit the front of the other Spear:



Rolling 2d8 vs 1d10/1d12 (the Ranked Fighting ability of the Human Spears let them roll an extra die in the combat, albeit at one step worse than normal) and the Orcs scored a Natural 1, wiping the Human Spears unit out.

Giants have a Ranged attack to represent their massive reach with their club. It is a d8 for range (meaning up to 8" reach, which is WAY to long in my opinion) and d6 for damage, which is pretty beefy. The Giant had a Heavy Foot within Default range (4") so no roll to hit was needed, and the damage roll netted a Disordered token for the Humans.

An Orc Sword moved up alongside the Giant, and another advances from the back line. The Wolf Hero flees for free, moving 4" (and was really hoping for more; he is just outside the frame to the right in this following Turn End pic).



Turn 3: Humans [4CP on 4d10!]
The Griffon Rider decides that now would be a good time to launch an attack. With his Blunt weapon, which negates Heavy Armor, he was hoping to hit an already-Disordered unit in the flank and kill it, but a) no Orcs had Heavy Armor, and b) no Orcs were getting beaten in the center! He Overdrives to hit the left flank of the previously-victorious Elite Orc Sword unit. With a CQd8, initiating melee and hitting the flank, plus Soft Counter from the Impact, the Griffon rolls 3d6 vs 1d8 and wins by 3. With the Drive Back ability from his Cavalry designator, this means the beaten Orc unit must move backwards 3"...but because this made them touch their Orc Spears unit nearby, they were eliminated instead.



The last CP is spent on the Heavy Cavalry, as they gallop after the fleeing Wolf-Rider Hero. They move 9". [note: We've all heard the derogatory term "HeroHammer", which refers to Warhammer and its ilk, where a Hero can rule the battlefield with his martial prowess. Mayhem gets around this a bit by only letting Heroes be attacked by other Heroes, unless they have joined a unit, in which case the attacker can choose which profile (the unit or the hero) fights back. This is why my Cavalry is chasing the Orc Hero, because with the General attached, they want to catch and kill the Orc]

Run, Orc Hero, Run!



Turn 4: Orcs [rolling 4d10, having lost the Elite unit, manage 10CP]
The Orc Swords unit next to the Giant, who was merrily swinging his club at puny humans, make an unmodified Danger roll in their attempt to close with the Terror-inspiring Griffon (they needed a Danger roll regardless, as the Griffon was more than 3" away...so it was a win/win). Getting 5", they closed with the right flank of the beast and held their shields up for protection....

The Orc Spears to the front of the Griffon are only 2" away from it. They had a choice: spend 2 extra CP to move their default movement of 3", or gamble with the Danger roll...and since they needed a 2+, why not? They rolled a 1. Of course they did. Using Overdrive, they reach the Griffon, and then spend 5 more (for a total of 8) to initiate melee (3 for third action, +2 because of Terror). With a CQd8, Spears being a Hard Counter vs Cavalry, and 1 additional unit in the flank of the Griffon, the Orcs roll 3d4 vs 1d8. All 4 dice come up 2's...which gets the Griffon excited for a moment. This tie is called a Deadlock, and some Traits only trigger on Deadlocks...and Push Back is one of those...until I read it in the book and saw that it was an Infantry- and Behemoth-only trait. Drats!

The last CP is spent on the Giant, who swings at the Heavy Foot again. The damage dice yields a 1, auto-killing the Humans (which is a bummer: Heavy Armor allows units to suffer 2 Disordered tokens before being killed, instead of just 1...but a crit is a crit is a dead Heavy Foot unit!).

The Wolf Hero flees his free 6". Those Humans just won't give up! Here are two angles of the end of Turn 4: Orcs:





Turn 4: Humans:
The Skirmishers realize that the Orcs still have a blasted Skirmisher unit tied up with the Crossbows (note: "Stuck in", a term from WFB, doesn't apply to Mayhem; you can actively remove a unit from melee. It costs a pretty Command Point, but it can be done!). 1 CP to turn and move into them, 2 to initiate combat, +1 to use the Great Weapons has the Fanatics rolling 4d6 vs 1d12 (flank, 2nd unit, initiating melee, plus Great Weapon's Heavy Counter when Initiating). The Humans win by 7 (irrelevant, but a fun stat nonetheless) and because of the existing Disordered token on the Orcs (and no Heavy Armor), this finishes them off.

"Look, ma, no Wolves!"


The General and his Heavy Horse use two Default moves to catch up to the fleeing Orc Hero. The 10" is plenty of distance to engage, and the General rides to the front of his unit, using their free Impact hits to avoid having to pay more to begin the melee. The Hero has no facing, so the General don't gain an extra die or more for hitting in the flank/rear, and roll 2d6 vs 1d10 (the Lance is a Heavy Counter on Impacts vs everyone!). Despite the good odds, the Orc puts on a brave show and wins the battle by 1! The General and his unit would then liked to have Rallied, removing the marker, but alas, they were 1CP short of being able to do so...which was actually a frequent occurrence during the game ("...if only I had just one more CP!).



The last two CP were spent over by the embattled Griffon. The nearest Human Spears unit moves up in support, pinning the Orc Spears in the right flank. This will lend an extra die to the Griffon in the upcoming grand melee.

The Griffon uses the last CP to melee the Orc Spears. As I started counting up dice, I gave both units +1 die for having a supporting unit beside them. The Griffon's 3d8 vs 2d4 (Spears HURT!) looked daunting, but throwing common sense and good tactics out the window, the Griffon swung anyway. The Orcs rolled 2 1's on their d4's, and the Griffon and his noble rider were deader than dead. Very dead. I think this poof was a Griffon feather:



Turn 5: Orcs [rolling 3d10, losing the banner from the Skirmishers = 2CP!]
With all tactical options limited, and the Wolf-riding Orc Hero all but trapped, he calls out the General and leaped to the attack. 3d10 (initiating, enemy is Disordered) vs 1d10, the mighty Orc Hero dodges a thrust from the ironclad General and sinks his blade deep into the chest of the Human warrior! A Natural 1 killed the General...I fully expected a 2nd Disordered token on the Heavy Armor-wearing unit, but the gamble paid off.

With that, the game was over, and the Orcs kept the field. The fallen General is a bit blurry...



Thoughts and Wrap-up:
So, what did I think? I really, really enjoyed this game. I felt satisfaction as I was counting and changing the different die types, and maneuvering wasn't too bad.

I had a few minor gripes:

Maneuvering multiple units isnt smooth. I suppose this is natural, but both the Orcs and Humans tried bringing their blocks of 3 troops to bear and things broke apart.

I really, REALLY wish there was a way to add dice to a Danger roll, whether it be a CP cost, a Trait, or something...gambling on just 1 die, when the game rewards multiple dice in so many other situations, just felt a little off. In fact, in Difficult Terrain, the game already has the "Roll a bunch of dice and keep the lowest", so it shouldn't be a stretch to make the opposite true as well.

As mentioned, the Giant's d8 "Ranged attack" is just too long. I can see a d6, but d4 might even be better. A minor thing, though.

The Command Points system worked pretty well. It isn't my favorite concept because, like Warmaster or FWC, it left certain parts of my battlefield untouched while other parts raged out of control (those Wolf Skirmishers lasted forever, untouched, while that one epic brawl with the Griffon took 8 CP!). Still, I like it better than Warmaster because you KNOW what you're going to get at the beginning of the turn, as opposed to just suddenly having your turn be done or whatever, and this way is is partially Resource Management. All in all, it is something I can live with.

My biggest issue, however, is similar to what I have with other points-build systems, and that is this: in a game where Die Type is so important, making a 1-point difference between Combat Quality dice is just too little. Consider this:

Unit #1: Mov d8, CQd12 unit is 5 points
Unit #2: Mov d6, CQd10 is also 5 points.

Add a Spear to Unit #1 and he costs 6 points. Now he has a Hard Counter vs Cavalry...rolling d8's.
Increase Unit #2's CQ down to d8, also for 1 point, and now he is also 6 points and effectively has a Hard Counter vs EVERYTHING, all the time.

I think CQ dice should increase cost at LEAST by 2 per die type...making the more combat effective units cost that much more. Anyway, I really wrestled with this while I was building the two lists (I built twice as many units as I used, just to be complete, and it was fun too!), but it could be just me.

Everything else felt really fun, though!


I really liked the way Elite units are assigned (each army gets 1 for free), because it requires taking 3 of one unit type in order to upgrade one, and since it only increases the CQ by 1 step, its not a huge deal (well, and it adds 1 die to the CP pool).

I will play this. I will play this with as many people as I can grab to play it with, and for as long as I refuse to give Thomas his models back! I am now hunting for money that will allow me to buy my own Orcs/Goblin army, as well as a Wood Elf army (which I figure will give me a massive range of "good monsters" I can build and use)...and I am really happy about it. I recommend this game highly. I have found the author to be responsive on both Tactical Command and The Miniatures Page. And keep in mind, Brent Spivey kept a lot of things out of this inexpensive ruleset for a reason - he wants players to build upon the basics. I, for one, cannot wait to see what else he is coming out with!

Wanna buy a 28mm WFB Orc Army? :)